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Press Release : Article : Denver Colorado
The Magazine
June 27, 2001
The Unusual and Unexpected - On the Road with Bev Saidel
While I must admit that I am one of those people who
do a bit of planning prior to taking a trip, I do like to deviate from
time to time. It must have
something to do with the mystery of the road less taken or the experience
of the place visited that was not on the agenda.
This time the place was the Black Hills of South Dakota.
My intrepid traveling companion, Susan, and I decided to travel by
car, leaving from Denver on a Friday morning - returning on the following
Monday - thereby doing a bit of driving with the intent of lots of
sightseeing. Loosely planning
the trip gave us an opportunity to be leisurely.
We had nightly reservations in Hot Springs, Keystone and Deadwood
so we did not worry about having to find a place to stay each night. That allowed time for a diversion or two.
Definitely a trip with some room for adventure.
Our first nightly spot was Hot Springs, SD.
I just kept thinking how nice a long soak in mineral water would
feel after a day of mostly driving. We
arrived at the Inn at Battle Mountain, which sits below the site of an
altercation between the Sioux and the Cheyenne regarding ownership of the
warm springs. The Inn is a
comfortable enough place that sits next to a small meadow filled with
wildflowers. When we researched the warm spring’s options, I envisioned
the Evans Plunge, a noisy, bright place filled with water and children and
noise. A place to soak and
play in. Susan envisioned the
Springs Bath House. She won.
We were able to get last minute appointments for a
soak and massage and were invited to come over as soon as we wanted to
enjoy the facility. Manager,
Molly Rae and her associate, Tiffany, warmly greeted us at the door. We were given a list of options.
After a quick review we decided to shoot the works and prepared for
overall pampering. We enjoyed
a prolonged soak in the mineral springs pool, a two person Jacuzzi steam
treatment, aroma therapy and a one-hour, full body message.
We enjoyed every moment. I
was secretly amazed that I was able to drive back to our room - we both
felt like well-done Jell-O. What
a treat - it was unusual and unexpected.
The next day we headed for the Crazy Horse Monument
by way of Wind Cave National Park. We
were able to just make an unplanned 10:00 a.m. tour of the Wind Cave.
The cool temperature of the cave was invigorating and the guide
knowledgeable. We saw the
underground wonders of nature, that included a myriad of beautiful and
delicate box formations for which Wind Cave is famous and we marveled.
Robbie, park service employee and our guide, reminded us that we
are all owners of Wind Cave National Park and that it was ours to visit
and conserve. Wise words...
The Wind Cave Park is wide open prairie stretching
acre after acre before those who visit. Since Robbie encouraged us to
visit the hills in addition to the cave, we set out ready to explore.
Coming around a turn we came across a herd of free ranging bison.
Being somewhat of a city girl, I could not get over the size of the
bison. It was just like in
the movies, except I got to be the star.
There I was out on the prairie, keeping downwind, stalking the wild
bison with my camera. Thank
goodness for a long lens. It
allowed me to stay at a respectful distance. I may be intrepid, but I am
not foolish. It was thrilling. Dare
I say unusual and unexpected?
We continued on our journey and drove through Custer State Park via a detour on the way to Crazy Horse Monument. I had read that wild burros roam in one area of the park and that visitors were encouraged to feed them. When we came to that turn in the road I was prepared. About 10 burros stood here and there, stretching from the middle of the road to the side of it and into the meadow. There is nothing shy about these burros. If you slow down - beware. One came along side and stuck his nose toward me. Luckily my window was down and I was able to satisfy his carrot craving for about 5 minutes! His muzzle was soft and gentle and his big beautiful brown eyes seemed thankful. We drove away slowly watching others become bogged down in burros on this two-lane park road.
Unusual and fun!
Traveling further on we entered Crazy Horse country.
I know that I am not the first person to state the unbelievability
of the Crazy Horse Monument. Rising
above a small valley Crazy Horse towers above you from atop his Indian
pony pointing to his land. “My
land is where my dead are buried.”
Everyone knows the sculpting of this mountain is a
private, on-going family venture. Everyone
knows that Korczak Ziolkowski was invited by the Lakota to sculpt this
legend of the American plains. Everyone
knows that Crazy Horse was one of the war chiefs who defeated General
George Armstrong Custer at the Little Big Horn.
Everyone knows this project is a long way from completion. And everyone knows that it will be and already is amazing.
We, like many of the other visitors to this place,
experienced the unusual and the unexpected.
The sheer magnitude of the project causes you to shake your head in
wonder. The project becomes
even more amazing when you walk through the Visitor Center and take in the
history of the natives of the American Plains.
As we walked through the center I spied a small boy with a huge
grin on his face toting a large rock.
I began to get excited. I
heard that visitors were invited to “take a piece of the rock”.
In a corner of the center near Ziolkowski’s workshop, we found
the large bin filled with dusty pinkish-white rock.
There was a sign inviting visitors to take a souvenir – one piece
of the million some tons of rock that have been removed from this
mountain. And so we took away
a little piece of the monument with us, as all visitors are invited to do
-- asked only to impart whatever donation one would like to share.
Visiting Mount Rushmore at the end of a long day was
not the best idea I had ever had.
We were tired, but we were also game.
This was my first time to South Dakota, my first time to Mount
Rushmore. And despite the
heat and the length of the day, we determined to be amazed by the
magnificence of Rushmore. Before
walking down the row of presidents, we stood in the cool of the gift shop,
looked around, caught our breath and quenched our thirst with a long drink
of water. I will admit that I was looking forward to crashing in our
room in Keystone, but I knew without a doubt that Mount Rushmore should
not be missed or dismissed. As
I stood facing the gigantic images carved into the granite, I clearly
understood why Rushmore is a national treasure.
It is an amazing tribute to four amazing Presidents.
Men who endured during difficult times.
Men who were adventureres, each in their own right.
Men who names and deeds continue to rise above, as their images do,
a reminder for those who come here and remember.
The next day, refreshed and eager for more adventure,
we headed north to Deadwood. I
have always wanted to go to Deadwood.
Everyone knows the stories of Calamity Jane and Wild Bill Hickock
and Aces and 8s -- the “deadman’s hand” -- fortune and adventure.
I admit that I have always been fascinated by this period of our
history. I marvel at the fact
that people in the mid to late 1800s could travel such distances on
horseback or find the towns they were trying to get to or track each other
down. But those driven to
adventure did move West and find each other.
And they forced the Native Americans of the northern plains to
change their way of life through the invasion of their land – Paha Sapa,
the “Heart of Everything that Is”, the Black Hills.
Driving through this wonderful pine tree covered
landscape reminds you that this was the land of the Cheyenne and the Sioux
- the Lakota. Encountering
and experiencing their spiritual places affects you.
The beauty of the grassy hills, covered with wild flowers and
bison, and the awe of the Needles range on one of the scenic by-ways helps
you to understand why this area was so precious to the Cheyenne and the
Lakota. There is a peacefulness about this area that fills you
with wonder. Sitting on a
quiet hillside, you can imagine that it is not 2001 but 1860, before the
gold rush, before the treaties moved the Cheyenne and Lakota from this
land.
Moving onward, as one must inevitably do on a road
trip, we approached Pactola Reservoir.
Pactola is a treat for everyone who enjoys the pleasure of deep
blue water, hillsides covered with pines and wild flowers and a wide-open
blue sky. Take a moment to
stop and dip your toes in the clear, cold water.
On a hot day there is nothing better and the surroundings deserve a
picnic on a blanket. But be
careful, you may not want to leave.
And so we dragged ourselves away from the beauty of the lake and headed for fortune and glory in Deadwood. I had made reservations at the Bullock Hotel, noted as the finest example of historic preservation in Deadwood. Seth Bullock, the former Sheriff, was a personal friend of Teddy Roosevelt and Seth set out to provide a more elegant setting for his friends in the form of the Hotel. He did a fine job. The lower level is occupied by the Hotel’s casino and the two upper floors offer rooms for the night. Our room was atop the casino, Victorian in nature and very, very comfortable.
Deadwood is a “gaming” town complete with “saloon” gals –
who serve drinks, slot machines and gaming tables.
You would be hard pressed to miss the casinos lined along the main
street. But the entire town
of Deadwood is also a historic district.
There are signs denoting the location of the original No. 10 Saloon - the place where, while playing cards, Wild Bill was shot in
the back of the head by Jack McCall.
And there are signs denoting the location of where Jack was
captured and where the trial took place.
If you hike up to Mt. Moriah (not recommended in the heat of the
day) you will find the final resting places of Bill and Calamity and
Potato Cake Johnny. You will also find the Jewish and Chinese sections of this
cemetery as well as the potters field and monuments of notable town folk.
They all rest here some 300 feet above Deadwood’s main street.
Some might say that everything about Deadwood
symbolizes the unusual and the unexpected and they would be correct. But one of the most unusual and unexpected and perhaps the
biggest surprise of all is Jake’s.
Jake’s provides fine dining in a town that offers $.99 shrimp
cocktails and inexpensive prime rib dinners.
Away from the noise of the gaming tables and machines, Jake’s
sits on the top floor of the Midnight Star Casino, whose most famous claim
to fame is probably her owner, Kevin Costner.
Like Planet Hollywood and the Hard Rock Cafe, most of the walls are
filled with photographs, posters, costumes, and props.
It’s fun, it’s tasteful and it’s good natured. But Jake’s gives you a break.
When you enter the top floor of the Midnight Star, either by stair
or by elevator you leave the clatter of the gaming town. The dining room is elegant and tasteful and exhibits only one
painting - a scene from Dances With Wolves - the sharing of a medicine
pipe between new friends.
Jake’s transports you to a fine dining oasis -- a
little bit of heaven where one can sample escargot or a fine steak, a
wonderful glass of Merlot or a fine martini.
And you get to linger - there is no rush.
Dining becomes a wonderful event, filled with conversation and well
prepared food. Relax and
enjoy - you deserve it... for tomorrow you return to Denver.
Bev Saidel lives in Denver and is a freelance writer and photographer, a connoisseur of the unusual and the unexpected.
Beverly A. Saidel is the owner of Cheap Shots Photography in Denver, Co. (303-331-9932)
